Sunset Boulevard is
famous, but the best known portion of the boulevard is the mile and a half
stretch of Sunset between Hollywood and Beverly Hills that has been dubbed
"The Sunset Strip."
Running between Crescent Heights Boulevard (on
the east) & Doheny Drive (on the west), the Sunset Strip embraces
a premier collection of rock clubs, restaurants, boutiques, and Hollywood
nightspots that are on the cutting edge of the entertainment business.
In the evening, the Strip is a vibrant slash of gaudy
neon, a virtual traffic jam of young cruisers on weekends, a stimulating
mecca for people-watchers and celebrity wannabes.
Like some fabled caravan route between holy cities,
the Strip has taken on an eccentric character all its own. Mammoth, hand-made
billboards are one of its trademarks. These colorful ments were
designed to catch the eye of Hollywood producers and deal-makers as they
drove to work in Hollywood from their homes in Beverly Hills. Now, many
of these billboards serve primarily to puff up egos of the stars they promote
- which is why the industry refers to them as "Vanity Boards."
Occasionally, these billboards are clever: the one
for Disney's "Aladdin," for instance, featured a magic
lamp that actually emitted smoke. Another, advertising a luxury car company,
actually put $30,000 in cash on their billboard (watched over by a security
guard).
So let's take a look at what there is to see on the
Strip, starting at the Strip's east end, and heading west:
Sunset Strip
attractions:
[Even-numbered
addresses are on the south side of Sunset;
Odd-numbered addresses are on the north side of Sunset.]
Near
the east end of the Strip, you'll find one of L.A.'s premier comedy clubs:
The Laugh Factory, at
8001 Sunset Boulevard (the northwest corner of Sunset & Laurel Avenue)
(323) 656-1336
The
property right across the street from the Laugh Factory (8000 Sunset
Boulevard, at Laurel) has an interesting history. A short while ago, the
center housed the flagship store for the Virgin
Megastore chain, before it went out of business. During its
heyday, it saw customers like Winona Ryder
and Leonardo DiCaprio, Ben
Affeck, Henry Winkler, and Sharon Lawrence
("NYPD Blue").
The center still houses Crunch
Gym, with its own celebrity following, and a popular multiplex.
An
historical footnote:
That Virgin Megastore sat on the same spot where the legendary Schwab's Pharmacy
once stood. In the movie "Sunset Blvd," William Holden's
character calls Schwab's Drug Store "headquarters; a combination office,
coffee klatch, and waiting room" for Hollywood writers. And
so it was. F. Scott Fitzgerald(author
of "The Great Gatsby") had a heart attack here in
1940, while buying a pack of cigarettes. Songwriter Harold
Arlin wrote "Over the Rainbow" (from "The
Wizard of Oz") by the light of the Schwab's neon sign.Charlie Chaplin and Harold
Lloyd used to play pinball in the back room. And the rumor still
persists that Lana Turner was discovered at
Schwab's, but it isn't true (see the article on Hollywood High
for the real story). Alas, Schwab's was closed in 1986, and replaced
by the Virgin Megastore a decade later.
Another
historical footnote: At the southwest
corner of Sunset and Crescent Heights is the former site of the
"The Garden of Allah,"
a legendary Sunset Strip apartment complex, a series of bungalows and cottages,
and site of countless wild Hollywood parties. It was actually a collection
of private bungalows, frequented by stars such as Errol
Flynn, Clark Gable, Greta Garbo,
W.C. Fields, Humphrey Bogart,
F. Scott Fitzgerald, the Marx
Brothers, and Orson Welles. According
to author and Hollywood historian Laurie
Jacobson,Tallulah Bankhead swam
naked in the pool here, and Marilyn Monroe
was discovered here sipping a Coke next to that same swimming pool. Alas,
they "paved paradise, put up a parking lot" (as the Joni
Mitchell song said) when they tore down the old Garden of Allah.
Today, the site contains just another tacky, modern strip-mall containing,
among other things, an El Pollo Loco fast food stop. (There's an interesting
web page about it at http://gardenofallah.com/GOA_original.asp)
Just
a little west of that same historic corner, at 8200
Sunset Boulevard (at Marmont Drive) is a giant statue of Bullwinkle
the Moose (and his friend, Rocky, the Flying Squirrel). It used to stand
next to the headquarters of the cartoon studio that made those Bullwinkle
epics. Now, it's next door to a pet care center. Such are the tides of
stardom...
Right
next door, at 8210 Sunset, is Libertine, a trendy nightclub
with a celebrity following. (A few years back, it housed Union,
another hot club/restaurant.)
Across
the street, hovering above the Strip at 8221 Sunset, is Chateau Marmont,
the castle-like hotel where John Belushi
died of a heroin overdose in 1982. (323) 656-1010
.
The
sidewalk café featured in the final scene of Woody
Allen's "Annie Hall" was "The Source"
restaurant," a vegetarian bistro located at 8301 Sunset (at Sweetzer
Avenue). The sidewalk dining area has been semi-enclosed since the movie
was shot there, and recently the restaurant changed hands and got a new
name. It's now called 'The Cajun Bistro'.
(323) 656-6388.
"Carney's,"
a novel restaurant that bills itself as "the little train on the right
side of the tracks," is housed in a large yellow train car on the
north side of Sunset (8351 Sunset Blvd.), located just west of Sweetzer
Avenue. Actor Andrew McCarthy ("Mannequin") likes
the place. So does Cuba Gooding Jr. (323)
654-8300. (They have a website at http://carneytrain.com)
Back
on the south side of the Strip, at 8358 Sunset, stands the historic
Sunset Tower Hotel. In the 1990's,it was known as The Argyle Hotel. Before that, it was known
as the St. James's Club & Hotel, a grand old 13-story building,
the Strip's first high-rise (built in 1929), and one of Hollywood best
examples of Art Deco design. But at the start, as now, it was called
the Sunset Tower hotel, and virtually every star in Hollywood
stayed here at one time or another. It was a favorite of Howard Hughes,
who kept a number of suites here for his various girlfriends; other guests
included Clark Gable, Jean Harlow,
Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra
and John Wayne (who is said to
have kept a cow on the balcony outside his penthouse suite for fresh milk).
In the 70's, the building was seen on the popular detective show "Cannon",
as Cannon's apartment building. As the St. James, it housed a private club,
hotel and restaurant, with members that included Liza Minnelli,
Elizabeth Taylor, and David Bowie.
It was also the locale for memorable poolside scenes from the movie 1992
"The Player," and has also appeared in the "The
Italian Job", "Get Shorty" and "Strange
Days". Leonardo DiCaprio and
friends were spotted at the Fenix bar at the Argyle. (323) 654-7100
At
8371 Sunset (at King's Road) is the Saddle
Ranch Chop House. It's kind of hard to
miss, considering the stagecoach out front and the manequin/saloon girls
hanging from the balconies of the rustic wood building. Inside, besides
grub, you'll find a mechanical bull (seen on "Desperate Housewives","American
Idol", "Six Feet Under", etc. In July
of 2010, Tom Cruise
& Will Smith
closed down the place for most of the day, while they met here to discuss
a possible joint project. (This location started out as the former Thunder Roadhouse
Cafe, opened by "Easy Riders" Dennis Hopper
& Peter Fonda.)
Worth a look. (323) 656-2007.
At
8430 Sunset is the House of Blues,
a restaurant/bar/concert-house whose owners include actor Dan
Aykroyd (of "The Blues Brothers")
and the rock group Aerosmith.
(323) 650-0247
Just
across Olive street (to the west) is The
Sky Bar (at the Mondrian Hotel) - one of the hottest nightspots
in L.A. right now. 8440 Sunset. (323) 848-6025
And
on the north side of Sunset is another major comedy club on the Strip:
The Comedy Store, at
8433 Sunset , where stand-up comics such as Jay Leno got
their big break. (323) 656-6225.
Historical
note: There have always been famous nightspots on Sunset.
When the boundary lines were drawn, this stretch of Sunset fell outside
of the borders of the city of Los Angeles, and it flourished as an independent
region not subject to the city's laws. Back in the mid-1930's, before Las
Vegas lured away many big name acts, Sunset Boulevard contained the world's
hottest nightspots.
There was the famous trio nightclubs:
The Trocadero (8610 Sunset), Ciro's
(8433 Sunset), and The Mocambo (8588 Sunset),
that were very popular with the show-biz crowd in their time.
Ciro's
(where the Comedy Store
is today) may have been the most famous nightclub in the nation back then,
where stars were not only in the audience but on the stage as well - stars
watching stars! Desi Arnaz and his band played
there on occasion, and Desi & Lucy danced
there to other bands. Frank Sinatra punched
a photographer here. Mae West even took the
stage at one time to judge a bodybuilder's contest.
All three of these historic nightclubs
are gone now, but the Sunset Strip itself has remained a popular night
spot through the decades, with modern rock clubs replacing the posh nightclubs
of yesteryear.
The
old TV show "77 Sunset Strip"
featured shots of "Dino's Lodge" each week. Dino's was real,
located then at 8524 Sunset (west of La Cienega Boulevard and east of Londonderry
Drive). Alas, the lodge no longer exists, and 8524 Sunset is now simply
part of a large, nondescript office building, next door to the Tiffany
Theatre (8532 Sunset). But the Tiffany occasionally boasts stars
of its own, in its live stage productions: In 1999, David Arquette("Scream") starred in a new musical version of "The
Rocky Horror Show"; and in 1994 George Wendt
("Norm" on "Cheers") and Ed
O'Neill("Al Bundy" on "Married with
Children") shared the bill here in the play "Lakeboat."
Look closely at the sidewalk in front of the arching doorway at 8524 Sunset,
and you'll discover a plaque declaring that this is indeed the site of
"77 Sunset Strip"; the series was filmed here from 1958
to 1964.
Just
a block south of Sunset, at 1200 N Alta Loma Road, is the Sunset Marquis
Hotel and its well-known celebrity haunt, the Whisky
Bar. (310) 657-1333
At
Sunset Plaza Drive (the 8600 block), you'll find Sunset
Plaza, with its chic sidewalk cafés, trendy boutiques &
great people-watching. A local favorite hang.
At
8605 Sunset is a shop called Billy Martin's,
a favorite clothing stop for Bruce Springsteen
and Arnold Schwarzenegger,
who are fans of their Western-style duds. (310) 289-5000
On
the south side of the street, near Sunset Plaza, at 8720 Sunset, is Le Dome,
a celebrity restaurant that can boast Elton
John as one of its founders. (310) 659-6919.
A
number of Hollywood celebrities have left their bare footprints in the
wet cement outside of Kenneth
Cole Shoes, at 8752 Sunset.
Just
above 8795 Sunset (at Horn) was Wolfgang Puck's original, world-famous
Spago restaurant, the original
celebrity restaurant. (Spago long since moved to Beverly Hills. But you
can still see the large eye mural on the side of the building.
Just
across Sunset from the former Spago, at 8788 Sunset, was actor Woody
Harrelson's eccentric new club/restaurant/oxygen
bar, named O2. It didn't last
long... The spot now houses a more traditional restaurant/bar.
Music
has always played a big role on the Strip. Besides the former Virgin Megastore,
there was the venerable Tower Records
flagship store (at 8801 Sunset), a Hollywood landmark where stars autographed
CD's & shopped, and rock concerts took place in the parking lot.
The building now houses Live on Sunset,
a trendy clothing store. . (310) 657-7300.
The Strip has always been famous
for music and night life, so it is fitting that the west end of the Strip
is anchored by a number of famous nightclubs:
One
of the best known clubs on the Strip if The
Viper Room, at 8852 Sunset. Owned by Johnny
Depp, it's where actor River
Phoenix died.
"The
Whisky" (8901 Sunset, at Clark/San
Vicente): the world famous spot where Jim
Morrison and The
Doors started out (as the house band in 1966).
So did the Who.
the Kinks,
the Byrds, Led
Zeppelin, AC/DC
and Jimi Hendrix
also played there. It was the birthplace of go-go dancing back in the 1960's
- and the club is still going strong (with mostly heavy metal bands). During
their first visit to L.A., the Beatles
were invited to the Whisky by actress Jayne
Mansfield. When the press ambushed them there,
a temperamental George Harrison
threw his drink at a pesky photographer, and hit another actress (Mamie
Van Doren) by mistake. (310) 652-4202.
"The
Roxy" (9009 Sunset, at Hammond St.):
perhaps Hollywood's best rock club; and definitely the most popular club
for celebs; where Rod Stewart
met his future wife, supermodel Rachel Hunter.
Over the years, it has seen performances by David
Bowie, Bruce
Springsteen, Neil
Young and Prince.
(310) 276-2222.
The
Rainbow Bar & Grill (9015 Sunset):
former site of the Villa Nova restaurant, where Marilyn Monroe
had her first date with future husband Joe DiMaggio
in 1953, and where Judy Garland
became engaged to Vincente Minnelli (Liza's
father) in 1945. (The Villa Nova has since relocated to Newport
Beach.) As the Rainbow, it has attracted the likes of John Lennon,
Mick Jagger
and Led Zeppelin.
More recently, the Rainbow's customers have included Sly
Stallone, Robin
Williams, Nicolas
Cage, Robert De Niro
and Jack Nicholson.
(310) 278-4232
Across
the street, at 9039 Sunset, is the Key
Club. (310) 274-5800
The
Troubadour isn't actually on Sunset, but
it's only about a half mile south of the Strip, at 9081 Santa Monica Blvd
(just east of Doheny). The club opened back in 1957. It was here where
Elton John performed
his first show in the United States (on August 25, 1970); he was introduced
by Neil Diamond).
In that same year, a drunken John Lennon
heckled the Smothers Brothers
here and was thrown out of the club (along with his friend, Harry
Nilsson).
Randy Newman started out here. The Eagles (Don Henley & Glenn Frey)
first met here in 1970 ("You know, the Troubadour Bar was the center of
the universe at that point in time", said Don.) Comics
Cheech & Chong
were discovered here. Elton returned to do a series of special anniversary
concerts in 1975. Later, the club became virtually synonymous with heavy
metal bands such as Mötley Crüe.
(310) 276-6168.
...as
you drive farther west on Sunset, past the end of the Sunset Strip and
the Los Angeles city limits, Sunset Boulevard suddenly undergoes a startling
transformation. The harsh city streets and eccentric storefronts of West
Hollywood abruptly disappear, and are replaced by broad, emerald green
lawns and elegant white mansions.
The Hollywood
Chamber of Commerce: (323) 469-8311
The West Hollywood Chamber of Commerce: (323) 650-2688
The Beverly Hills Visitors Bureau: (310) 271-8174.
[A
Word of Warning: like all big cities, parts
of Sunset Blvd can be dangerous at times. Exercise reasonable caution.]
Getting
there: The Sunset Strip is that part of
Sunset Boulevard (in west Hollywood) which begins at Crescent Heights Boulevard
(just west of Fairfax) and runs west to the Beverly Hills city limits (at
Doheny Drive). / To reach the Strip from the Hollywood(101)
Freeway, take the Sunset Boulevard exit, and go west on Sunset Boulevard,
(about three miles) to beyond Crescent Heights Boulevard. / From RodeoDrive, take Rodeo Drive north to Sunset Boulevard, then turn right
(east) on Sunset.
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