Maurice's Snack 'n' Chat is a soul food restaurant on Pico which had such a huge celebrity following at one time that the restaurant had an unlisted phone number. Georgia may be more trendy at the moment (and a lot more upscale), but Maurice's has the cooking.

It's a simple little place, in a rather questionable neighborhood along Pico Boulevard, a few miles southeast of Farmer's Market. But it's a relatively short drive from Beverly Hills, and it attracts Big Names.

Ronald Reagan made the trek out to this offbeat restaurant early on.

Before their breakup, Elizabeth Taylor threw a big birthday party here for Larry.

It's popular with members of the Lakers basketball team.

Food critic Merrill Shindler reports that he once encountered the entire L.A. Rams football team eating here, while Henry ("The Fonz") Winkler was throwing a birthday party in the front room.

Lena Horne, Barry White and Lionel Richie all love Maurice's. And when Jerry Brown isn't at Lucy's El Adobe, he sometimes shows up here.

There's a wall full of autographed photos of the stars, including Jim Carrey, Johnny Depp, Angela Bassett and Cybill Shepherd.

And on Saturday nights, this somewhat seedy neighborhood often has quite a few Rolls-Royces and Mercedes parked along Pico.

The decor is sparse but adequate. There's a patio out back (painted green), and a small dining room indoors. Service is always friendly, and 81-year-old "Mama" Maurice Prince dishes out the kind of simple, good, down-home food that's hard to find in West L.A., including meatloaf, candied yams, black-eyed peas, pan-fried fish, & southern fried chicken. Call ahead for the spoon bread. Better food than you'll find on Melrose, but not as pricey. Expect to pay about $36 for dinner for two. Nice-casual dress.

Open seven days. Mon-Thurs: 12 noon to 10 PM; Fridays: 12 noon-11 PM, Saturdays:: 4 PM - 11 PM. Sundays: 2 PM-8 PM. Reservations suggested.

Getting there: Located on the north side of Pico (at Sierra Bonita Avenue), about seven blocks east of Fairfax.